Thursday 13 September 2012

Moscow, Russia

Arriving in Moscow we were a little apprehensive, as people had suggested it was a harsh metropolis, with less charm and beauty than St Petersburg. However, after surviving the incredible Metro system at morning rush hour and arriving at our hosts apartment, less than 1 kilometre from the Kremlin, we quickly found ourselves liking the city with it's many layers of history and change.


It was also nice to see more of the Soviet era present in terms of architecture and statues. We explored an urban park that seemed to hold dozens of old communist relics, including a crowd of Lenins.


Just across the street from our hosts apartment on Tverskaya was the most incredible supermarket we had ever seen, that put shame even to Harrods. It was apparently built for the high-ranking communist party members to shop in, complete with chandaliers and beautiful carvings. For us, the basic foodstuffs were the same price as everywhere else, so we were able to shop in opulence for a time.


There were some pretty incredible buildings from Stalin's time too, like this gargantuan university building, that housed student dorms among other things. There were several of these giants that loomed over the city and dominated the skyline, which made us think of Batman's Gotham.


Not everything was so serious and imposing though, and we found a more playful side of Moscow that was in all likelihood linked to the enormous amount of wealth being generated there. We spent an afternoon relaxing in a huge park filled with many things that western countries would not consider making freely available to the public for fear of theft or damage, like these giant beanbags.


Another free aspect of the city we enjoyed was a dramatic recreation of a battle with Napoleon. We witnessed a huge spectacle of dancing, singing, fighting and hollywood-quality horsemanship that was put on in the Red Square.


There was also a ridiculous side to the wealth in Moscow though, and one example we witnessed when walking home at 11pm through a very fancy shopping mall adjacent to the Kremlin. Not only were people spending obscene amounts of money in designer stores while grandmothers begged for small change outside, but they were employing people to be live models for clothing.


Wealth is not new to Moscow however, with the Kremlin itself a record of the gross inequalities that have been present for a long period. We explored a number of private chapels and mini-cathedrals that were reserved for the Tsar at one time.