Our first night we chose to stay with a local family in a homestay, and ate a meal with them under the house where the kitchen and dining area was located. It was a similar experience in many ways to couchsurfing, which we have been missing since coming to SE Asia, where couchsurf hosts are much harder to find.
We watched the family all take turns in swinging a hammock where a baby was sleeping, but we were much more interested in the puppies running around. There seemed to be at least one puppy at every house and restaurant, which was instant entertainment.
One day, we decided to go on a mountain biking trip to a couple of local waterfalls. The trip included a local guide, who also worked part-time as the primary school's librarian. In order to cross this swiftly flowing river, we had to carry the bikes across, and though the water only came to just past the ankles, I was shocked at the how forceful it was.
This waterfall was impressive because of its location - tucked away on a local farmer's land and hidden behind thick jungle. We were able to walk quite far behind the cascading water and see the entrance to a bat cave. Our guide also told us the Khmer Rouge killed over 100 people there, which was hard to imagine in the tranquil setting.
Our other nights at Chi Phat were spent in a guesthouse run by the family next door. It differed from the homestay in that it had a fan, a bit more space around the bed and a conventional rather than bucket-shower. We really liked the split bamboo walls and floor, which gave some relief from the intense heat, but also meant that the 5 am rooster crowing, pig squealing, and cumulative sounds of the village arising penetrated the room much more easily.
We hired a kayak one morning, as the cost seemed really reasonable compared to other places in Cambodia - $7 a half-day for a double. During our explorations we came across quite a few of these boats, where oarsmen and often oarsgirls were crossing or journeying up and down river. It was also a great way to see some of the rich bird life in the area, as our paddling was almost completely silent.
During our paddle, we saw many riverfront houses, and worryingly, river toilets. This outhouse was located just upstream from the ferry crossing.
Our penultimate day we decided to visit the reforestation nursery around 6 km north of the village. It was nice to be on foot, and for most of the morning we had good shade cover.
Along the way, we passed many traditional wooden huts, and people were often relaxing on the verandah or hanging out underneath in a hammock. Our guide knew everyone and told these ladies I really liked their house.
At the nursery we saw all the stages of tree germination and cultivation. It was amazing how long it takes a tree to grow just a couple of feet, and we understood the need for a nursery to reforest areas that were previously cleared for farming and logging.
I asked if we could plant one, and chose this tree that was almost too big for it's pot. It felt really good to be contributing to a fantastic eco-tourism project, and one that so obviously benefited many villagers directly, and the whole community through increased and sustainable economic activity.
