Kunming is a very relaxed city, with large pedestrian areas and tree-lined boulevards. It doesn't have the big ticket sights of many other places, but would be high on our list of places to live in China.
We stayed with a Norweigan working in China, in a very nice apartment complex that was typical of the grand and spacious style we have come to associate with ex-pat living.
There is not anything particular to see in Kunming, but it is a nice place to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. We did notice quite a few blind people offering massages, and as we were both intrigued and had sore shoulders from carrying too much stuff, we decided to employ their services. It was an interesting but difficult situation, as we usually point to phrases in our book and use hand signals to work out prices, but we succeeded eventually and were well-rewarded.
Our host and her friend joined us for a weekend getaway to a small World Heritage village called Heijing. We took a train and as we were late in booking tickets, could only manage to buy a 'hard seat'. The carriage transported peasants returning to the countryside after they had sold their wares in the city, and a multitude of goods were transported, from a bedroom wardrobe to live piglets in baskets. At one point the carriage doubled as a market as pieces of raw meat were laid out on cardboard, some accidentally touching the spit-covered floor.
We were approached by friendly young Chinese who were part of a Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender (LGBT) group and decided to join them on their tour of Heijing, as we had organised nothing. We shared a big meal on arrival and it was very interesting to talk with them.
Heijing itself was a beautiful town, exactly what we were hoping to see from rural Yunan province. The noise, crowds, and traffic of the cities were noticeably absent, and people seemed to be living much as they had for generations. We watched this old couple preparing traditional Chinese medicine, having laid plants on the ground to sun-dry and now collecting them for use.
The town appeared to be practically self-sufficient, with all available space given over to vegetables and keeping animals.
Our hotel used to be a rich merchant house, the town being famous for producing excellent quality salt, which until sea-salt was widely imported, generated a lot of wealth for the inhabitants. It was an amazing building, with many traditional architectural features and symbolism.
We especially liked the roof, with its multiple layers and beautiful tilework.
The group was given a tour around the building, with anecdotes and stories related to it's long history and design features. We were lucky to have a great translator in the form of an anthropology Phd student.
Being in a big group was a strange experience for us, but it was a great opportunity to see the inner-workings of the ubiquitous Chinese tour group. They certainly packed out our time, with walks to temples between copious eating. Early in the morning we visited one temple high on the hillside.
It was a peaceful place, with three religions in the one place - Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. We loved this massive sign that says 'buddha'.
It was a very enjoyable foray into the countryside, made all the more interesting by having shared it with such a different group of Chinese, that we had yet come into contact.
We stayed with a Norweigan working in China, in a very nice apartment complex that was typical of the grand and spacious style we have come to associate with ex-pat living.
There is not anything particular to see in Kunming, but it is a nice place to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. We did notice quite a few blind people offering massages, and as we were both intrigued and had sore shoulders from carrying too much stuff, we decided to employ their services. It was an interesting but difficult situation, as we usually point to phrases in our book and use hand signals to work out prices, but we succeeded eventually and were well-rewarded.
Our host and her friend joined us for a weekend getaway to a small World Heritage village called Heijing. We took a train and as we were late in booking tickets, could only manage to buy a 'hard seat'. The carriage transported peasants returning to the countryside after they had sold their wares in the city, and a multitude of goods were transported, from a bedroom wardrobe to live piglets in baskets. At one point the carriage doubled as a market as pieces of raw meat were laid out on cardboard, some accidentally touching the spit-covered floor.
We were approached by friendly young Chinese who were part of a Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender (LGBT) group and decided to join them on their tour of Heijing, as we had organised nothing. We shared a big meal on arrival and it was very interesting to talk with them.
Heijing itself was a beautiful town, exactly what we were hoping to see from rural Yunan province. The noise, crowds, and traffic of the cities were noticeably absent, and people seemed to be living much as they had for generations. We watched this old couple preparing traditional Chinese medicine, having laid plants on the ground to sun-dry and now collecting them for use.
The town appeared to be practically self-sufficient, with all available space given over to vegetables and keeping animals.
Our hotel used to be a rich merchant house, the town being famous for producing excellent quality salt, which until sea-salt was widely imported, generated a lot of wealth for the inhabitants. It was an amazing building, with many traditional architectural features and symbolism.
We especially liked the roof, with its multiple layers and beautiful tilework.
The group was given a tour around the building, with anecdotes and stories related to it's long history and design features. We were lucky to have a great translator in the form of an anthropology Phd student.
Being in a big group was a strange experience for us, but it was a great opportunity to see the inner-workings of the ubiquitous Chinese tour group. They certainly packed out our time, with walks to temples between copious eating. Early in the morning we visited one temple high on the hillside.
It was a peaceful place, with three religions in the one place - Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. We loved this massive sign that says 'buddha'.
It was a very enjoyable foray into the countryside, made all the more interesting by having shared it with such a different group of Chinese, that we had yet come into contact.
