Siem Reap, Cambodia

Like all visitors to Siem Reap, we were interested in visiting the Angkor complex, and it's flagship temple Angkor Wat. In order to get maximum use from our ticket, we arrived after 5pm the day previous to our chosen day for exploring, and were able to enter the complex for sunset. There were surprisingly few tourists and we were able to see monks strolling around, and nuns sitting in quiet contemplation.

The next morning, we left our guesthouse at 5am in order to be at Angkor Wat for sunrise, and walked with the crowds across the impressive moat and through the gatehouse.

We jostled for position at the left-hand side of the entry path, where a pond reflects the beautiful silhouette of the temple's tiers. Dani pushed through the throngs and crouched down in front securing a spot without impeding anyone else's view.

I was especially happy it was a silhouette, as in brighter conditons the facade was marred by ugly green cloth covering a restoration project. We got our money shot and decided to move on, as most people tend to explore Angkor first, leaving it nearly empty later in the day.

From the 'must-see' sunrise at Angkor Wat, we set our sights on the temple that sounded most interesting to us, the enigmatic Ta Promh. It is home to the most famous imagery of Angkor - the eerie roots of massive silkwood and strangler figs busting stones apart and slowly destroying the temple. As the ancient trees grow and lose their footing in the shallow soil, they tear down walls and wreak majestic havoc.

Aside from the decay and destruction, the temple is still being used for it's primary purpose - as a place of worship, first for Hinduism, and now Buddhism.

Disappointingly in our opinion, much work is being done to arrest the collapse and natural degeneration of the temple. In some cases it has been done well, and structures have merely been supported so the status quo is maintained.

However, a huge resoration project in the central courtyard has removed many trees and attempted to rebuild the structure as it was hundreds of years ago. There are other places in the complex where this could be done, whereas Ta Promh is the best example of what happens when a temple is abandoned.

Thankfully, there are still areas where it is possible to witness the formidable power of trees, their miniscule roots growing over hundreds of years to move tonnes of stone, and in many cases, keep them in place much longer than if left to the elements.

We visited many temples during the day, some sprawling and hugging the ground, others climbing to surprising heights given the technology available to the builders.

As the day wore on and we gradually became desensitised to the marvels around us, we spent longer sitting and looking. The incredible heat made us seek out shade, and we tried making silly pictures.



Having a guidebook with us was in this case quite valuable, as without a guide the buildings, sculptures, bas-relief and motifs can seem random and bewildering. We also had the excuse of sitting in the shade and reading about the convoluted history of Angkor and the complicated Hindu myths and historical representations that are depicted throughout the complex. We thoroughly enjoyed it, though it was a long and energetic day.

Battambang, Cambodia

Battambang has the feel of a quiet provincial town, but its importance and previous wealth are obvious from the layout and architecture. There was many a beautiful French-colonial facade hidden behind tacky signage, but in most cases it appeared that the additions were built in front of the existing building, so hopefully one day they will come to their senses and reveal the charming buildings behind.

After much deliberation between tuk-tuk, hiring a motorbike and cycling, we chose pedal-power and set off at dawn to avoid the brutal heat. It was the right decision, as the gentle pace allowed us to watch as Battambang woke up and breakfasted, and to admire the river and countryside.

While cycling, a butterfly flew directly into me, and looking behind to see if I had accidentally killed it I could find no trace. It turned out it had attached itself to my shorts, and I rode along for 20 minutes or so before inadvertently dislodging my passenger.

We arrived at Wat Ek Phnom temple around 14km from town and shorlty after taking this photo of a giant buddha, were approached by a fat man on a motorbike. He was wearing a helmet that said 'tourist police' and told us we needed to pay him $3 each to see the temple and buddha (which we could see from where we were standing) as well as $1 for each bicycle. This is the cost of a night's accomodation in Cambodia, so there was no way we were going to pay, and I said we didn't have money. He dropped the price to $1 each, but I stuck to my story and he soon left, so we continued unharassed.

Inside the temple there was a man chanting prayers into a microphone, which led to an enormous speaker outside, reconfirming our belief that Cambodia is the loudest country in the world, with it's complete disregard for standard volume conventions.

There was also a temple ruin in the complex, which was a small but interesting taste of things to come at Angkor Wat.

Our primary reason for going to Battambang was to take the boat ride across the Tonle Sap - an amazing lake because it drains south into the Mekong during the dry season, but the flow reverses during the monsoon and enlarges the lake to more than 5 times its previous size. In order to reach it we traveled for many hours along a winding river that flows right through Battambang, and it was a fascinating way to see Cambodians interact with the waterway.

Unfortunately, the size and power of our boat was sometimes too much for the people trying to fish and paddle on the water, and it was easy to see the damage being inflicted on the banks and the nerves of locals as they were slapped around by our wake. We had deliberately chosen a slow boat to attempt to avoid this problem, as there have been cases of capsizing and damage caused by boats traveling too quickly, but it still traveled too fast at some points

The children however seemed to really enjoy the sight of tourists sailing past, their smiles unbroken even as the wake caused their boats to dip and rock violently. They were not the only ones who ran into boat trouble though, as the increasingly narrow river was difficult to navigate on tight bends, and our driver ran into trees and shrubs on a number of occasions, nearly taking out tourists who were not paying attention.

It was very interesting to pass the 'floating villages' some of which were on stilts and others actually afloat.

We also saw a great variety of methods for fishing - the most impressive of which were cantilevered and were operated to rise and fall periodically, trapping any fish that happened to be above them at the time of ascension. It was a fascinating glimpse into life on the lake.

Chi Phat, Cambodia

Chi Phat village is a small, rural Cambodian village near the Cardamom Mountains. The area is incredibly rich in biodiversity and until recently, was a hotspot for illegal logging and poaching. Luckily, an organisation called Wildlife Alliance stepped in, and chose Chi Phat as the site of their community-based ecotourism.

Our first night we chose to stay with a local family in a homestay, and ate a meal with them under the house where the kitchen and dining area was located. It was a similar experience in many ways to couchsurfing, which we have been missing since coming to SE Asia, where couchsurf hosts are much harder to find.

We watched the family all take turns in swinging a hammock where a baby was sleeping, but we were much more interested in the puppies running around. There seemed to be at least one puppy at every house and restaurant, which was instant entertainment.

One day, we decided to go on a mountain biking trip to a couple of local waterfalls. The trip included a local guide, who also worked part-time as the primary school's librarian. In order to cross this swiftly flowing river, we had to carry the bikes across, and though the water only came to just past the ankles, I was shocked at the how forceful it was.

This waterfall was impressive because of its location - tucked away on a local farmer's land and hidden behind thick jungle. We were able to walk quite far behind the cascading water and see the entrance to a bat cave. Our guide also told us the Khmer Rouge killed over 100 people there, which was hard to imagine in the tranquil setting.

Our other nights at Chi Phat were spent in a guesthouse run by the family next door. It differed from the homestay in that it had a fan, a bit more space around the bed and a conventional rather than bucket-shower. We really liked the split bamboo walls and floor, which gave some relief from the intense heat, but also meant that the 5 am rooster crowing, pig squealing, and cumulative sounds of the village arising penetrated the room much more easily.

We hired a kayak one morning, as the cost seemed really reasonable compared to other places in Cambodia - $7 a half-day for a double. During our explorations we came across quite a few of these boats, where oarsmen and often oarsgirls were crossing or journeying up and down river. It was also a great way to see some of the rich bird life in the area, as our paddling was almost completely silent.

During our paddle, we saw many riverfront houses, and worryingly, river toilets. This outhouse was located just upstream from the ferry crossing.

Our penultimate day we decided to visit the reforestation nursery around 6 km north of the village. It was nice to be on foot, and for most of the morning we had good shade cover.

Along the way, we passed many traditional wooden huts, and people were often relaxing on the verandah or hanging out underneath in a hammock. Our guide knew everyone and told these ladies I really liked their house.

At the nursery we saw all the stages of tree germination and cultivation. It was amazing how long it takes a tree to grow just a couple of feet, and we understood the need for a nursery to reforest areas that were previously cleared for farming and logging.

I asked if we could plant one, and chose this tree that was almost too big for it's pot. It felt really good to be contributing to a fantastic eco-tourism project, and one that so obviously benefited many villagers directly, and the whole community through increased and sustainable economic activity.

Koh Ta Kiev, Cambodia

From Phnom Penh we headed toward the coast, forced by the lack of railways in Cambodia to take a bus to Sihanoukville. This tourist town has a reputation for all night partying and cheap beer, so we decided to stay at Otres Beach, as far as you can get from the town and it's main beach, Serendipity. We were rewarded with a modest level of development and a beautiful, calm beach.

From Otres we were collected for our journey out to Koh Ta Kiev island, where the Crusoe Island Camp Ground is located. Unfortunately, as everything is just getting off the ground there, we didn't have shade for the boat trip, and everyone got a little pink under the blazing sun.

On arrival, we were led to our private bungalow along a jungle path, crossing a freshwater creek, and feeling like Robinson as he returned home.

The bungalow was a treat for us - a departure from our normal budget traveling, and we made full use of it during the next 24 hours. The shade and mosquito net were our refuge, and after swimming or walking on the beach we would return and read. I loved the bush carpentry with which it was put together, and the rough-sawn boards and round poles gave it a rustic but comfortable feel.

Meals were taken at the bar in the main camp, just off the beach. It was a very relaxing place to hang out.

Dani spent as much time as possible in the numerous hammocks scattered around, but one in particular was her preferred choice. It hung from a tree on the beach and the waves often flowed right underneath, sending the crabs scurrying away.

The bar was the source of entertainment at night, where the friendly hostesses served cold beers and we chatted with other travellers about places to go and places to avoid.

Our second night on the island we said goodbye to our bungalow and switched to a tent. The heavy rain and lightning we experienced the night previous had made us wary, so we chose to stay on a platform with a thatched roof. It was a happy medium between luxury and extreme budget.

For me at least, relaxation sometimes turned into boredom, as I felt more like doing something productive than just lazing about. We decided to go for a cross-island trek one afternoon, and were led by an intrepid Dutchman on the small and winding paths.

We visited a hut on the other side of the island, where a family was living very traditionally. They were surrounded by coconut trees and a mango plantation. We asked if we could have a couple coconuts and the young girl fearlessly shinned up a colossal palm, a rope wrapped around her waist that would do nothing to slow a fall. It became apparent that she had the rope so she could haul up a big knife and cut the coconuts free.

The awestruck boys of the family were clearly impressed, as were Dani and I. The oldest boy took over the knife to shape the coconuts and pierce the top for consumption.

Returning to the camp we spent our final evening in our thatched tipi, having moved yet again, and went swimming in the perfect water.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

From Ho Chi Minh, we took a bus to Phnom Penh, crossing the Vietnam-Cambodia border at Bavet. Our passports were whisked away and the conductor took money from us too, ran away as soon as the bus stopped, and returned with our Cambodian visas. It was an incredibly speedy border, taking 20 minutes to cruise through both sides, and we could return to watching a young Jackie Chan dubbed in Khmer, the language of Cambodia.

Phnom Penh was an interesting city, not particularly pretty or dignified, but we liked it's crumbly parts much more than the conventional suburbs in which our hostel was located.

Knowing almost nothing about the Khmer Rouge or the genocide that occurred in Cambodia in the 1970's, we felt it was important to educate ourselves, and the first place on the list was Tuol Sleng Prison - the Auschwitz of SE Asia.





The thing Dani and I found most perverse was that before it was a prison, the facility was a high school. The torturers even used some of the play equipment to tie people up and beat them. The classrooms were subdivided into cells and walls, knocked through to more closely resemble a prison.

The size of the cell was ridiculous, and even the dimunitive Cambodian people would have found it difficult to lay down.

Many people go straight to the Killing Fields after visiting Tuol Sleng, where 20,000 prisoners were  executed, but Dani and I had lingered longer than most, and were thoroughly depressed. We decided something sweet might cheer us up, and saw a man pressing sugar cane.

It was quite sweet, as to be expected, but I was surprised at the texture - almost like a pear in terms of its slight grittiness, and seperating in a similar way too.

We explored the riverfront, and I was delighted to see monks walking in their saffron robes. I never have much luck photographing monks, as they seem superhuman in their ability to sense someone with a camera, but they must have been really engrossed in their conversation, as they did not notice me at all.

We also sat by the river and watched in awe as a group of a dozen Cambodian men played with a rattan ball. They were amazingly adept at keeping it off the ground, and a few of the guys had the amazing ability to do a kick behind their back. We stood mesmerised until it started to get dark.